5.21.2005
5.20.2005
a beautiful day for the beach. ...surfing... there is lots of waiting in surfing during this time of the year in hawaii. these waves of up to 6 ft today are small in comparison to the 40ft+ waves that will be crashing into the north shore some time this winter. i will return then to try or die :) one cool thing about the waiting is that you get to listen to the locals, meet some interesting people, observe sea turtles the size of bumper cars swim right up to you, and catch a tan.
this dude was really good. he would ride almost every wave he could get out to. the thing is he could paddle out so fast he was catching wave after wave. surfing is a lot like sales. once you close the deal, that is only half the battle - now you have to deliver. same here, once you are out there *finally* you have to give it 110% to set a wave.
5.19.2005
5.18.2005
5.17.2005
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